舌尖上的航海丨第11集 非洲“神肉”风波

“神州”号轮机长缪舟的表妹在老家县城开了家“比尔通”餐馆，号称“非洲神肉”。

一时顾客盈门，生意十分火爆。

所谓“非洲神肉”是由各种野味特制而成：无论牛腿肉、鸵鸟、野鸭、羚羊、甚至鳄鱼、狮子、河马……，都能制成“比尔通”美食。

“比尔通”起源于十七世纪非洲，各类飞禽走兽，由生肉浸泡果醋，再加上大量香料晒干烘烤而成，外观十分粗糙，切开后却黑里透红。松嫩可口，还带有特殊的香味，是下酒的最佳食材。

“比尔通”餐馆瞬时在县城掀起一阵“神肉”热，也引起当地主管机关的注意，是否有勃“野生动物保护法”？

就在“比尔通”餐馆处境十分尴尬时，缪舟远航休假回到老家。

近几年，缪舟随“神州”号频繁来往于亚洲与非洲之间，不仅游览了非洲绮丽的风光，也饱食了非洲的美食。写下了多篇有关非洲的远航日记。

面对人们的质疑。缪舟兴致勃勃地拿出“远航日记”；《神秘的非洲“神肉”》顿时吸引了人们的眼球。

看完这篇论述详实的精彩日记，人们的疑问顿时“云消雾散”

一年前，缪舟的表妹看到《神秘的非洲“神肉”》，突发奇想；在家乡开一家类似的餐馆。这个想法得到缪舟的支持，考虑到国内的《野生动物保护法》，在选材方面做了特别的安排；凡被保护的动物一律排除之外……。

缪舟《神秘的非洲“神肉”》日记，打消了人们的顾虑。

“比尔通”餐馆更加火爆。

为满足广大顾客的好奇和需求，《神秘的非洲“神肉”》通篇打印悬挂在餐厅的正面墙上。

九月二十日 晴 微风

“神州”号又来到非洲。

非洲，广阔而神奇的大地。在许多人眼里；非洲是个尚未完全开发的地区，充斥着贫穷和战乱。当我踏上这块神奇的土地时，不仅惊叹它的美丽富饶，还赞叹它的“古怪”美食“比尔通”。

“比尔通”的起源和发现，缘与非洲至今依然保持的狩猎传统。在赤道几内亚、咯麦隆、肯尼亚等地，以食用野味来彰显身份。特别是珍稀动物。其中最为特殊的是“丛林肉”，蝙蝠肉在非洲到处可见，这种夜行动物在市场上颇受欢迎。由于数量多价格便宜，普通百姓都能享用。西非的尼日利亚人认为；蝙蝠肉可以治疗不孕症。在非洲许多国家，婚宴上淋着些芒果汁的蝙蝠肉是不可缺少的“当家菜”。

此外，昆虫在非洲的餐桌上同样是美食。非洲人喜欢食用白蚁。其中带翅膀的品种为“上品”，即可生吃也可油炸。晒干用盐干炒便为“零食”。如果把白蚁干与玉米粉混在一起蒸透淋上酱汁，便是地道的“正餐”。

虽然，现时非洲今非昔比，人们茹毛饮血的生食传统仍未断绝。在肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚的一些原始部落喝动物鲜血，吃生肉为生的习俗随处可见。

好客的非洲人通常把传统演变成待客之道。在北非的苏丹。烤全羊是家常的“宴客菜”。羊肝是专供贵宾享用的“特品”；将刚宰杀的羊取出肝脏，淘洗干净后直接切块蘸着专制的酱料食用。如果客人不肯吃，是对主人的不敬。

东非的埃塞俄比亚。人们酷爱生吃牛肉；新宰杀的带有体温鲜牛肉里脊最受欢迎。连国宴上都有“生牛肉宴”。把牛肉切成丁，拌上特别的佐料，用当地特有的发酵薄饼“英吉托”裹着吃，是地道的“国菜”。同样在非洲的岛国毛里求斯。这里是深海垂钓的天堂，人们常把捕获得近半吨的鲨鱼，做成“全鲨宴”，款待远方尊贵的客人……。

谁知，缪舟的这篇内容和文采并茂的远航日记，掀起一股非洲“神肉”热。不仅在老家县城十分火爆。据说，“比尔通”在国内其它地方也悄然兴起。

The cousin of Miao Dan, the Captain of the Chinese cargo ship Shen Zhou, opened a

restaurant that specialized in Biltong in her hometown in China. She named the restaurant

“Biltong Meat from Africa”.

Right after it opened, customers from nearby towns swarmed through its gates,

enchanted by the delicious Biltong meat.

Biltong is produced by various types of meat, ranging anywhere from beef to ostrich,

geese, lamb, and even hippos, crocodiles, and lions. Originating in the 17th century in Africa,

Biltong is made by slicing meat into fillets, strips, or flat pieces and marinating it in fruit

vinegar before adding all sorts of spices on its surface. Biltong is baked and dried in the sun,

making it rough and burned on the outside, but tender and juicy on the inside. With its chewy

consistency and unique flavor, many liked to pair it with wine.

The Biltong restaurant quickly took the Chinese countryside by storm, but it also raised

certain suspicions in some of its visitors. Tourists who stopped by the restaurant often

wondered, “Did this Biltong restaurant adhere to Wildlife Protection Laws?”

Just as the atmosphere at the Biltong restaurant became more and more tense and

awkward, Miao Dan returned from his voyage with the Shen Zhou on a short vacation.

Before his break, Miao Dan had been traveling between African and Asia with the Shen Zhou

for many years. Not only has he visited the breathtaking countries and seen marvelous

attractions, he also had his fair share of African cuisines. Inspired by the cultural wonders of

Africa, Miao Dan kept a journal of his experiences, and occasionally wrote down recipes of

African dishes in it.

Unfazed by the allegations against his cousin’s restaurant, Miao Dan confidently took

out a passage from his journal titled “The Intriguing Biltong Meat” and printed copies of it to

scatter across the restaurant.

Miao Dan’s journal entry promptly cleared the customers’ concerns.

About a year ago, Miao Dan’s cousin read the same entry from Miao Dan’s journal and

was inspired to open a Biltong restaurant in their hometown. Miao Dan supported his cousin

all along the way, and told her to take into consideration the Wildlife Protection Laws.

Together, they picked only suitable ingredients and sustainable means of preparation.

The Biltong restaurant’s connection to this fascinating seafarer’s story gained it

increased approval from tourists in China. Miao Dan’s cousin, who was always proud of

Miao Dan’s achievements, framed a copy of Miao Dan’s journal entry and hung it up on the

walls of the restaurant.

September 20th

The Shen Zhou has once again arrived in Africa.

Africa’s land is vast and magical. In the eyes of many foreigners, the countries of Africa

may seem like they are not fully developed, thus bringing about images of poverty and chaos.

But when I stepped foot onto this extraordinary continent, I was welcomed by nothing but its

distinctive beauty and its strange yet flavorsome meat cuisine, Biltong.

I found out that the origins of the Biltong dates back several centuries, and that it is

directly influenced by traditional methods of hunting and meat conservation here in Africa. In

countries like Guinea, Cameroon, and Kenya, people used hunting and cooking rare meats as

a way of demonstrating their personality and place in society.

One of the most noteworthy types of meat is bushmeat. Monkey meat, snake meat, rat

meat, and bat meat are prevalent in the markets of Africa, and are very popular. In Western

African countries such as Nigeria, bushmeat is a frequently served delicacy at family dinners

and wedding banquets, and it is even believed to cure infertility.

In addition to bushmeat, insects are habitually served as a specialty dish in many

families. People in South Africa like to eat termites, which are rich in healthy proteins and

fatty acids. Termites with wings are particularly considered luxurious, and can be eaten raw,

deep-fried, or dried and stir fried and eaten as snacks. To make a formal meal out of termites,

chefs mix it with cornmeal, steam them together, and drizzle it with a special sauce.

Although Africa has changed plentily with the rise of globalization and the spread of

foreign cuisines, locals in countries like Kenya and Tanzania have kept the practice of

drinking animal blood, and the consumption of raw meat can still be found almost anywhere.

African people are exceptionally welcoming to visitors. In the North African country of

Sudan, a full lamb barbecue is a widely-used way of showing hospitality. To show gratitude

to the most esteemed guests, the lamb’s liver is removed, rinsed, sliced into small pieces, and

dipped into a homemade sauce. It is seen as a sign of disrespect if the guest refuses to indulge

in these dishes.

In the East African country Ethiopia, people love to eat raw beef. Tenderloin from cows

that were recently slaughtered is the most favored. The beef is firstly minced, then mixed

with seasonal spices, and wrapped in Injera pancakes. This dish is served even in the most

important events, including state banquets, as a national dish of Ethiopia.

Likewise, in the island nation of Mauritius where deep-sea fishing is widespread,

fishermen often caught large, heavy sharks and prepared them as “shark feasts” to serve to

visitors who had travelled there from afar.

As Miao Dan left for another voyage on the Shen Zhou, little did he know that his

journal entry and the restaurant it inspired gradually became more celebrated in the Chinese

countryside. Its stories circulated across the entire country, igniting a new love for Biltong

meat and other African cuisines amongst Chinese citizens and tourists.